Okay, I'm just going to say it: the Sofitel in Marrakech has the most amazing breakfast buffet. It's not just that the food was prepared with the utmost care and ingenious creativity. It's also that the presentation was impeccable. With the glimmering crystal chandeliers and sparkly serving dishes, I honestly felt like I was in a jewelry store with the goal of choosing priceless baubles for my collection.
Although I could have sat at that buffet for another hour, it was time to explore the city! According to the Smithsonian, "it is believed Marrakech was settled in the early 11th century; five centuries later it was one of Morocco's dominant center of art and culture. Today Marrakech is the nation's fourth largest city, with an exciting blend of modern architecture and an ancient walled medina." We started by walking past lush gardens towards arguably the most iconic landmark in the city, the Koutoubia mosque. Although the mosque was just as beautiful as I remembered it, I couldn't help wishing that the clouds had been replaced by the sun because the pictures would have turned out more vividly (see the pictures from August 2010 to compare for yourself).
We then headed to the Bahia Palace, which was built in the 19th century and meant to be the greatest palace of its time. The verdant gardens and detailed craftsmanship are really something!
Next, we walked towards the spice shop / apothecary where we'd be able to buy sealed containers of whatever magical concoctions we wanted to bring home. And buy we did: ras el hanout, chermoula, harissa, saffron, pure argan oil for cosmetic use (ahem, stretch marks), glycerin soap, kohl...yeah, we cleaned out the store, and we weren't the only ones! The salesman was very convincing, obviously.
We headed back to the Sofitel for lunch, and we were greeted with haute couture on a plate. Oh my goodness, it was gustatory heaven!
We also stopped to see a gentleman who was heating water for the neighboring hamam, and simultaneously cooking tangia (clay pot with yummy food inside, which is cooked by being buried in hot ashes). He's multi-talented: he also plays gnaouan music!
After our sumptuous lunch, we started on our way towards the souks and the Djemaa El Fna square, with lots of stops along the way. We first paused to see a bread-maker, who kindly offered us a fresh loaf. Everyone was totally stuffed from lunch, but we each politely tried a small piece. It smelled warm and inviting, and the texture was perfect -- soft on the inside, and crunchy on the outside. Delicious, And that's on a full stomach!
We also stopped by a Koranic school -- the same one I had seen in 2010. I was reminded I couldn't help thinking that Stanford is a beautiful university, but nothing like this!
Then the real fun began: we embarked on a tour of the souks in Djemaa El Fna, and it was an intense convergence of colors and smells and sounds.
The tour director pointed out an antique shop with lots of really expensive, real stuff. I mean, we're talking about eyes only. Don't use those hands to touch anything or to pull out your wallet!
Mohamed asked the tour director where he could buy the best caftan, and we were brought to a special shop that was totally separate from the main alleyway. Even though I had staunchly refused to buy any apparel on this trip because of my burgeoning tummy, Mohamed insisted that I buy this gorgeous confection made of golden threads and beads. It's of wedding quality -- it was so unique that I couldn't refuse. I'm a lucky gal!
We met up with the rest of the group at the Djemaa El Fna square, our final destination of the day. If you've never been there before, the closest analogy is the best kind of circus. I saw snake charmers, acrobats, henna artists, food stalls -- it was hopping. I was puzzled as to why it seemed (believe it or not) quieter than the last time I had visited, and I suddenly remembered: in 2010, I was here during Ramadan after sunset, and that's the busiest time you'll ever see.
Dinner was on our own, and we chose to have a quiet one at the hotel. Mohamed, inspired by the tangia cooking he saw earlier in the day, ordered a beef tangia that featured meat sliding off the bone. I chose a nice fish, which was spiced generously with chermoula. Let's just say that we slept well that night.
