My day began, of course, with a nice breakfast. Although the offerings were -- believe it or not -- more meager than the other hotels', I loved the layout and the presentation.
I was curious to see Fez, which I had heard so much about but I didn't have time to visit during my 2010 trip. I quickly discovered that I was not to be disappointed at all! We began with a bird's eye view of the city, followed by a walking tour of Fez's medina. This UNESCO World Heritage site is so serpentine and crowded that we needed a second guide whose sole task was to keep track of us at all times. Donkeys, scooters, carts and pedestrians crowded the winding alleyways, which only added to the festive atmosphere.
Anything that you could think of needing to buy was available. That's what the donkeys are for: carrying stuff!
We then entered a 14th-century Koranic school, which was another jewel tucked away in the medina. Something about the geometric designs, exacting proportions and thoughtful use of color is so captivating to me -- it's exactly what I see in my dreams.
A functioning school featured the cutest little students, who were learning their lessons in Arabic and French.
We then headed to the artisans' quarters. First we stopped at a carpet shop, where beautiful designs woven by women from around the country were on display and available for purchase.
Next, we went to a working tannery. I was totally shocked by the backbreaking labor still employed, which produced the softest leather but at a clear cost to the workers: the smell was so intense that all tourists were given sprigs of mint to smell. I think I stuffed my mint as far up as I could and wilted even the stems!
I was happy to head out into the fresh air. Lunch was an impeccably presented sequence of carefully prepared dishes. The lamb was falling off the bone -- my favorite!
After lunch, we walked toward the Jewish quarter (mellah) and saw a 17th-century synagogue.
We finished the day with a trip to the royal gates, which were huge.
I was starting to feel like a complete glutton with the high volume and quality of food eaten so far, but that didn't stop me from looking forward to the menu at a family-run riad called La Maison Bleue. How cute is the table setting? I ate just a little bit of each item that appealed to me because I was not particularly hungry, and I enjoyed every morsel.
